Nepal, India and Bhutan – 2009

Twelve bikes, two pillions, age range mid 30s to mid 60s. Eleven blokes with years of on and off road experience, and me. After some practice in a vacant lot the day before we got on the Enfields and rode out of Siliguri, in ‘full pace’ Indian morning rush hour. Having a lead and follow up vehicle with orange flags, our bikes with flags and orange vests, sort of impressed the locals. They seem all to ride little Chinese or Indian bikes. Headed to Darjeeling through the countryside and up the mountain. The road follows the railway line, sometimes railway line is on the road and it crosses it 72 times in 93 km. Then it got cooler and the fog rolled in.
Getting used to the back brake on the left pedal and gears being upside down was a constant challenge for my curried brain. I had my first of many falls crossing the railway track. So glad I had on every piece of protective clothing imaginable. Most riders came off during the trip and the only injury of note was a nose which was partially removed in an open faced helmet. 
We had a mechanic with called "One kick Arshard" because he starts all the bikes with one kick. I had scored the only electric start bike, a 500cc, which was a dream till the switch stopped working [sabotage?] and was swapped to one of the boys for a 350cc. I never did master the kick start.
It was a polling day in West Bengal so lots of people on the roads, mostly walking, and lots of queues outside polling places, all dressed in their Sunday best. On the whole trip when the locals see us coming they all smile and wave and the kids love waving and yelling to us. Great fun. The elections are held over several weeks over the different provinces and are ‘managed’ by police and military. This election process caused a problem several times for us as we had to turn back from closed boarders or take a different route to avoid ‘trouble’. The drivers worked on reports from down the road and mobile phone calls. One such trouble we avoided turned out was a bit serious with 2 killed, 3 shops burnt and 7 vehicles torched. 
Bounced and bumped our way to the border. When we came out of Indian immigration office all of a sudden people started running, really fast. Shoppers, workers, school kids were running in one direction and police with guns and batons in the other direction. Our Indian guide got a bit serious at this stage and said lets go and don't waste any time
At one stage we were asked to keep together in a tight knit group and keep up close to the lead vehicle. We were aware of some ethnic tension in a particular town so our route was altered to try and avoid the issues.
Well the tension had spread. One of the ethnic groups had decided to close the roads. Every town we came to there were road blocks and up to 70 trucks stopped on the sides of the roads stretching 2.5 km. After some quick talking and a fair bit of bowing and scraping they decided that they would let the tourists on motor bikes through.
Still at bit tense though when there was a roadblock in the next seven towns and people are armed with bows and arrows, machetes, slingshots and sticks. All in full view as saber rattling to keep the strike breakers in order. They were not really interested is us. Truck drivers were sleeping under their trucks or washing or repainting them. Quite relaxed and resigned to the delay

Traffic is interesting, Lots of buses with up to 20 passengers sitting on the roof. Lots of trucks of all shapes and sizes, motor bikes and pushbikes and lots of pedestrians. Near all towns lots of people on the side of the road walking to or from their homes. But very few cars. Not many privately owned cars in India at this stage although our guide said they were about to produce a car for $2,500.00.
Now when you are driving in India you will see the occasional right hand indicator flashing. This may mean "I am about to turn right" or it may mean " Please pass on the right hand side"
. You need to guess what they mean and if you guess wrong it has some unpleasant consequences. On the whole the drivers were absolutely alert, courteous and gracious. They let us pass and gave us a wave through. The one rule that they insisted on was that going up hill had right of way because of potential gear box damage. There were many trucks with a ring of rocks around them on a big oil spill waiting for spares.
Potholes that you would not believe. And then we would come upon road works, new roads being laid. To sweep the dust from the packed road base before the bitumen is poured they use brooms. Down on their haunches, sweeping with little brooms similar to banister brooms. If they need some small rocks for a particular part of the road making process, they use the large rocks on the side of the road and keep hitting them with a hammer until they are small rocks. There had been a land slide a few weeks before which took a truck and its three occupants with it. The truck may be found and recovered when the rain starts.
Spectacular views of snow capped peaks of Himalayas in the distance.
Narrow, tight, twisty road with lots of sharp corners and switchbacks through tropical rain forest. Lots of monkeys on the side of the road along with plenty of goats, people, trucks, buses and other bikes to dodge.
Rarely got over 40kmph and cruised about 80kmph on flat valley floor a couple of times.
150kms in Australia, about one and half hours. In Bhutan with road works, 8 hours riding plus breaks and stops. We rode up and down sensation green tropical forest clad mountains on tight twisty, torturous roads that would never be built in Australia. Sheer drops 100's of feet down into the valley below. Rough, there were little bits of flat road between the potholes and washaways. Narrow, Ok on bikes but if 2 trucks met coming in opposite directions they had to stop and creep past each other with inches to spare.
Saw a Buddhist monastery was founded in 8 century and clings to the face of cliff 1,000 metres up from the valley floor. 2 hour walk up and 2 hour walk down. Some of the not so energetic amongst us took the pony ride option. Fantastic views and amazing to consider how they carried all of the building materials up there. Today they still need to carry food up to the monks that live there. 
Riding in Bhutan is sensational. Some great new mountain roads, with great scenery and lots of sweeping curves and bends to get stuck into. Also some challenging roads. Took 8 hours today to ride 180 kms. Lots of blind corners and you never know what you are going to encounter around the corner. A truck coming in the opposite direction on your side of the road. A stationary truck that was going in your direction but has stopped, because of breakdown, toilet stop or just rest. A huge pothole that you need to negotiate, a pack of feral dogs, a mob of cows, a few goats, a group of kids walking to school. Lots of excitement around every corner and then there is the fabulous scenery.
Most of the people in Bhutan were there national dress. All the school kids and others at work are in the national costume and it looks great.
Tourism is very strictly controlled in Bhutan. Only 20,000 tourists allowed in last year and that was the most ever. It costs US$250 per day and that includes all meals, accommodation, travel and tours. It is all inclusive.
Our food in Bhutan is westernised but have managed to get a little taste of Bhutanese food. They have chilli with every meal, and not as a condiment, as a vegetable. Had chilli cheese, whole chilli's in a cheese sauce.
Stopped at roadside stalls for lunch. Choices were Fish, Chicken, Mutton or Vegetable curry with rice, dahl and naan. It was beautiful but basic. Plenty of locals eating here with the now family right hand. Glad that they had spoons for us. Food throughout has been cheap and delightful

Good fun and challenging roads and riding. Unforgettable. [Judy Perry]